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CHAOS & OLD NIGHT

I’ve had plenty of chaos & old night in my life, from which I’ve run, hidden, or distracted myself. The line is from John Milton’s ‘Paradise Lost’, which has the rebellious angel, Satan, thrown out of heaven for some unconscious act, begin to contemplate the deep realms of hell to which he has been relegated.

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The Musée des Beaux-Arts, Dijon

The Musée des Beaux-Arts is located in the centre of the ancient town of Dijon, in what used to be the palace of the Valois Dukes of Burgundy. The architecture is stunning, with its high mansard roof and neo-classical trimmings, it was created slap bang in that last century when the ancien regime was floundering and the flames of revolutionary fervour were being fanned.

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The Doge’s Palace Under Water

The first time I saw Venice, it was in November, time of floods when the water rises and infiltrates St. Mark’s square. We were there for three days and each day the water rose higher until eventually they put up a rough scaffolding of wooden tables lashed together on which you could walk without having to wade through three feet of canal dredge.

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The Wild Wicklow Mountains

The Wicklow mountains are said to be thick with gold. They’re the first thing you see when you fly into Dublin, with the strangely sloping conical head of the Sugar Loaf rearing up majestically in the distance.

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Lost in Languedoc

The countryside is studded with tiny villages that act like the hearts at the centre of the great arteries that connect the amazing wineries of Languedoc, a kind of Frida Kahlo painting complete with angel topped sparkling fountains and tiny scrolls bearing inscriptions and dedications to viticulture’s long gone great and dead, each more picturesque than the last,

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The High Chaparral, New Mexico

I remember an old tv show called, The High Chaparral. Until I visited New Mexico, I had no idea what a ‘chaparral’ was. Or what I thought it should be. It so happens that chaparral proper only exists in parts of California and northern Baja

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Venice: An Artist’s Dream

Think of Venice, think of Casanova, artist of love. He lived here for years until he was forced to flee after being imprisoned for years in the Doge’s Palace for committing many ‘public outrages against the holy religion.’

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Temple Trailing in Tuc-tuc Hell

Bangkok, in search of temples. Outside the Grand Palace I met the person who turned out to be my host for the next four hours, a tuc-tuc driver who told me his first lie of the day, that the Grande Palace was not open until 12.30, but in the meantime he could take me to a few places (nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more).

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Lipstick on Your Tombstone

Ah, to be buried in Père Lachaise!! What more could you want? Jim Morrisson nearly went apoplectic trying to get the Parisian authorities to allow him to be buried there, and eventually succeeded, and, if his grave isn’t the most ideally situated, lost as it is behind a gigantic edifice to some French writer, it is still one of the most visited.

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Trim By Name

Trim by name, not by nature, for this sprawling mass of old masonry known as Trim Castle cries out for Hugh de Lacy, its original owner, to come back from the grave and set things right.

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The Seduction of Venice

Gazing across from St. Mark’s square to the Isola di Saint Georgio, through a line of bobbing gondolas bedded down in their royal blue coverlets, the distant island seems to float on the very air like some ancient Xanadu from the demented mind of a drug addled poet,

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The Marquis de Lacoste

‘Lust’s passion will be served; it demands, it militates, it tyrannizes.’ Thus spake the Marquis de Sade, perhaps while surveying the Luberon valley from one of his château’s windows in the hill town of Lacoste.

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Jardin Melancholia, Marrakech

Jaques Majorelle, after spending years trekking through the deserts and mountains of northern Africa, settled for a while in Marrakech and created a most beautiful garden on the Rue Yves Saint Laurent.

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The Saddest Pharaoh Ever

I love the Egyptian Museum at the Louvre. In fact, no matter how many times I vow to see some of the many other galleries, I always end up here, surrounded by canopic jars and vividly-coloured shabti statues.

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In the Land of Lavender

In the early hours of a summer morning I visited the Cistercian Abbey of Sénanque in Provence near the crumbling hill town of Gordes. It was completely silent, with not a soul about.

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